Chef to Chef—In Conversation with Paola Velez and Cheryl Day

Chef to Chef is our new behind-the-scenes series where we sit down for conversation with some of our favorite culinary pros working in the industry today.

We’re kicking things off with a conversation between two baking industry stars who are using their public platform to make a difference. James Beard Award-nominee Paola Velez is executive pastry chef at Maydan, La Bodega Bakery/Compass Rose and co-founder of Bakers Against Racism and Doña Dona DC. Her mentor and New York Times best-selling author Cheryl Day is a James Beard Award-nominee and co-founder of Back in the Day Bakery and Southern Restaurants for Social Justice. Day is also a member of the Leadership Committee of the James Beard Foundation Food and Beverage Investment Fund for Black and Indigenous Americans.

Read on to learn about the women’s journeys as bakers and community leaders, and the importance of female mentorship in their own lives.

Q: We’d love to hear how your love of baking began.
Paola: My love of baking started when I was just a toddler. My mom was working with her cousins at their restaurant on the Upper West Side of New York City. After school, my mom would pick me up and head to work. I would sit in the back of the restaurant, typically at an empty booth, while my mom worked...I got a front row view of the hustle and bustle of the restaurant, but more importantly, of the kitchen. Ever since then, I knew I wanted to work in a kitchen and create food that brings people happiness and joy. For me, food—and pastry in particular—signifies family and heritage. And now, being in the position I am in the industry, it’s a great honor beyond anything I or my ancestors could have ever imagined.

Cheryl: I realized early on that learning how to do something that my mom enjoyed would give me more quality time with her. It was our special time together as we baked to our hearts’ content. She would share stories about her experiences growing up in a small town in the South—stories like how she decided to leave her home to make a better life for herself after reading an article about women joining the military in Ladies Home Journal. And how she was one of a select group of Black women who joined the WAAC in World War II. We baked away, and I asked lots of questions. I admired her courage and passion, and she always encouraged me to do something that I loved—I soon realized that baking was that thing.

Q: How has tradition played a role in your journey as a pastry chef?
Paola: Tradition is my lifeline, it's the blood within my veins. The traditions of old are the building blocks, the foundation from which I build. But also, my work today is very much so driven by creating new traditions. By taking the stories, recipes, history, and heritage—and honoring them and the communities they represent, including my own—through my culinary lens, I am able to raise awareness, gain inspiration, and press on in the face of adversity. Every morsel, every bite is a time capsule that memorializes the present while honoring the past.

Cheryl: For me, tradition starts with a flavor and a memory associated with my childhood. It was a juxtaposition of seasonal ingredients from growing up in California and Southern flavors that my mother and grandmother taught me. A classic recipe, like a cake or pie, is a starting point to play with flavors and create something new but still pay homage to the past. I still use many of the traditional techniques that I was taught at a young age. Mothers and grandmothers became experts honing these skills, and I still respect many of those old-school techniques. I love to surround myself with the tools that are efficient but also make me smile. My trusted and true old wooden rolling pin, my favorite mixing bowls, a pretty container that holds all of my utensils all have a place of pride on my kitchen counter.

Q: How does baking connect you with the community, near and far?
Paola: This past June, I was able to see how baking, and a simple call to action, was able to connect so many diverse communities throughout the U.S. and across the world. Baking is a love language. It's something that we do when we’re happy, or sad, or mad. And after being furloughed and feeling helpless in the midst of a global pandemic and seemingly endless waves of racial injustices, it was something that not only soothed my soul, but it became a tool to fight for both racial justice and Black lives. Under the Bakers Against Racism banner, I was able to connect with friends and complete strangers, from James Beard-winning pastry chefs to stay-at-home moms, social justice-minded teens and citywide baking collectives. And together, over 2,400 of us representing over 40 states and 15 countries came together to raise funds and awareness, and publically took a stand for what is right. And for this community, I'm forever grateful.

Cheryl: Baking a dessert brings family and friends together at the end of meal. It’s the time to reflect on a great meal and finish it all with a dessert that brings the history of tradition together. It is also a great way to start conversations around the table and share cultures, connecting one family to another. I consider baking a great connector. It always has been for me. I have always baked an extra loaf to share with a neighbor, a coworker, a new friend. I learned early on that bake sales are a great way to get folks involved and keep the conversation open about what changes we can make in the world.

Q: Can you tell us about the importance of mentorship in your life?
Paola: Cheryl is an amazing individual that I have had the absolute pleasure of getting to know through Bakers Against Racism. She has been a mentor and confidant, not only someone I can turn to for advice and guidance but someone who I can celebrate with. Cheryl brings her calming presence and a lifetime of experience to every situation. She has shared many of the experiences she’s endured—both personally and professionally—in the hopes of helping someone like me avoid that very same heartache and hardship.

Cheryl: I always wanted to be the person I wished I had known when I was starting out in the culinary industry. When I met Paola, I let her know that I would be happy to share my lived experiences in any way. Our paths crossed for a reason, and I feel blessed to call her a friend. Our discussions always bring me joy. She reminds me of myself. Passionate and caring about others, willing to share experiences, creating awareness, and leaving the world a better place. As women of color, we have a special connection, because I know how it feels to be coming up in an industry that often does not accept us for who we are or expect us to adapt and change to fit in. Paola and I both agree, we will not allow that to happen.

Q: What advice do you have for women in the culinary arts?
Paola: I'm always flattered by this question, but, as I'm still elbows deep in flour on a daily basis, I don’t necessarily see myself as a mentor. Instead, I see myself more as a colleague and a peer to many of us that are still kind of figuring it out as we go along. I guess if I had any advice to give, it would be to be the best and most honest version of yourself, treat others as you want to be treated, learn to trust your culinary and creative voice, and, above all, stay rooted in the traditions and experiences that make you, you.

Cheryl: Follow your passion, and find other folks in the industry that you admire. Be willing to learn everything you can, and be prepared to put in the time. Be the first to arrive and the last to leave, and let it be known that you want to learn and grow. Be the teammate that everyone wants on their team. Show that you care and take pride in your work. Show genuine interest,and take the time to educate yourself. Create your own voice, and live it. Build a support group of like-minded people. All is possible when you set your mind to something, just believe in yourself and work really, really hard.

Thank you, Paola and Cheryl!

Read more from our Chef to Chef series with Latrice McArthur and Cedric Harden, and Omar Tate and Cybille St. Aude-Tate.